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Field Insights: Exploring Passive Solar Heated Buildings in Leh, Ladakh

Introduction

As a researcher and part of the project “Mainstreaming Passive Solar Heated Buildings in the Indian Himalayan Region: Integrating Modern Science with Traditional Wisdom,” funded by NMHS (National Mission on Himalayan Studies), I participated in a field visit with my colleagues to Leh, Ladakh, in November 2023. Ladakh, also referred to as “Little Tibet” and the “Land of High Passes,” lies between the Karakoram mountain range in the north and the Great Himalayas to the south. It is inhabited by people of Indo-Aryan and Tibetan origin.

Journey to the Destination

Our journey to Leh, Ladakh, began with a scenic flight that provided breathtaking views of the Himalayan ranges. As our flight descended into Leh, the landscape that unfolded was nothing short of spectacular. Majestic mountains, capped with snow, stretched as far as the eye could see, while barren valleys contrasted sharply with the snow-covered peaks. The stark and rugged beauty of the region was a sight to behold, leaving a lasting impression and setting the perfect backdrop for the study that lay ahead for the upcoming 6-7 days.

Exploring the Location

Our first stop was Zostel in Leh, a vibrant and welcoming place that instantly made us feel at ease. The moment we stepped inside, we were greeted by an atmosphere that was both laid-back and buzzing with energy. The shared rooms with their bunk beds reminded us of our college days, bringing back memories of hostel life. The cool hostel vibes, coupled with the friendly staff and fellow travelers, made us feel like we had landed in the perfect spot to begin our journey.

After settling into our rooms, we took some time to freshen up and shake off the fatigue of travel. Although we had been advised to take it easy and allow our bodies to acclimatize to the high altitude and cold temperature of Ladakh, the excitement of being in such a unique place got the better of us, and we set out to explore the surroundings. Our first destination was the bustling Leh market. Despite the thin air and slight dizziness that some of us felt, the vibrant colors, the aroma of local cuisine, and the sight of traditional Ladakhi architecture drew us in.

We wandered through the narrow lanes, stopping by various shops that offered everything from handcrafted souvenirs to warm woolen garments. The intricate structures of the local buildings fascinated us, offering a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of the region. This was just the beginning of our journey, and already, Ladakh was weaving its magic around us. As the sun dipped behind the mountains, casting long shadows across the landscape, we enjoyed a meal at a fancy restaurant, knowing that the days ahead would be filled with even more discoveries, challenges, and unforgettable experiences.

On the Ground: A Closer Look at our Study Sites in Leh, Ladakh
The schedule of our field visit was limited to visiting the following places for the quantitative analysis

  • RBC building, Saboo Thang
  • Himalayan Institute of Alternatives Ladakh (HIAL), Fiang
  • LEDeG office building and LEDeG Girl’s hostel
  • Druk padma Karpo School, Shey
  • Khardung La
LEDeG Office Building
LEDeG Girl’s Hostel
Druk padma Karpo School, Shey
Khardung La

These building locations were shortlisted based on three primary factors: the age of the building/technology, construction methods and materials, and building typology. Our exploration centered on locations with passive solar heated buildings, renowned for their energy efficiency and sustainability.

Our activities included detailed observations and studies focusing on:

  • Material Composition: Examination of locally sourced materials such as mud bricks and stone, which contribute to the buildings' thermal mass.
  • Physical Properties Analysis of the strategic orientation of buildings, designed to maximize solar gain during winter and minimize it during summer. Evaluation of thermal insulation properties, window placement, and other architectural elements enhancing passive heating.
The key findings for all the buildings in common were:
  • Direct gain with double glazing
  • South facing and insulated doors.
  • Trombe wall for living spaces or sunspaces.
  • Provision of holes in the roof for bukhari, ventilation and to prevent overheating.
  • Usage of local pine or poplar wood for ceiling.

One of the major highlights for me observing these buildings was from HIAL, Fiang and Druk Padma Karpo School, Shey.

At HIAL, Mr. Intekhab guided us on a tour of the various prototypes of PSHBs. These prototypes demonstrate comparable levels of energy efficiency, maintaining thermal comfort without relying on active systems. One of the buildings featured both passive and active measures, making it a net-positive energy building, producing more energy than it consumed. The surplus energy was then distributed to other buildings that relied solely on passive measures. Additionally, the new HIAL hostel was constructed using the “DIY” technology, which merges traditional construction techniques with innovative approaches. The building is a framed RCC structure, with the outer envelope consisting of a cavity wall filled with thermocol insulation sheets, an inner layer of poured concrete, and an outer layer of straw-clay bricks.

At Druk Padma Karpo School in Shey, all the buildings were meticulously maintained. The timber frames enhanced the structures' seismic resilience, enabling them to withstand earthquake loads, ensuring both durability and environmental compatibility. The V-shaped ceilings also contributed to natural daylighting in the teaching areas. Additionally, solar-powered systems addressed water scarcity issues within the school.

Exploring Ladakh’s Landmarks

After immersing ourselves in the study of Ladakh's unique buildings, we took some time to explore a few of the region's most famous tourist spots. During our site visits, we had the chance to explore Shanti Stupa, Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, and the highest pass, Khardung-la. Each location offered a different facet of Ladakh's rich cultural and natural heritage, leaving us with memories that will last a lifetime. The highlight of the trip, however, was the interaction with the local people and students.

Shanti Stupa: A Beacon of Peace

Shanti Stupa, a magnificent white-domed structure perched atop a hill in Leh, was built by Japanese Buddhists in 1991 to promote world peace. The stupa is not only a religious site but also a symbol of the deep connection between India and Japan. As we climbed the steep stairs leading to the top, we were rewarded with a panoramic view of Leh and the surrounding mountains. The stupa itself, with its intricate carvings and serene ambiance, felt like a sanctuary of peace. Standing there, overlooking the vast expanse of Ladakh, we couldn't help but feel a sense of calm and reflection.

Gurudwara Pathar Sahib

We visited Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, a sacred Sikh temple dedicated to Guru Nanak Dev Ji, who is believed to have visited Ladakh during his travels. We took prasad of tea and fritters, which was a humbling and fulfilling experience. Having spent 17 years in Punjab, the sight of a Gurudwara has always brought a sense of peace and comfort to my mind and soul. The familiar architecture, the welcoming atmosphere, and the greeting of "Sat Shri Akal" instantly made me feel at home, even in the remote landscape of Ladakh. There's something soothing about being in a Gurudwara; it calms every part of you, from your mind to your very soul.

As I entered, the sight of the sacred stone, preserved inside the main building, drew me in. This stone, bearing the imprint of Guru Nanak Dev Ji's body and the footprint of the devil, holds deep spiritual significance. It’s a powerful reminder of the divine presence and the enduring legacy of Guru Nanak Dev Ji. Sitting quietly before the stone, I found myself lost in the moment, chanting the sacred Japji Sahib: "Ek Onkar Satnam Kartapurakh Nirbhau Nirvair Akal Murat Ajuni Saibhang Gur Prasad Jap Aad Sach Jugaad Sach Hai Bhi Sach Nanak Hosi Bhi Sach." The words flowed effortlessly, but the feeling they invoked was beyond description. It was as if the entire atmosphere around me was charged with the divine, filling my heart with an indescribable sense of peace and connection.

Leaving the Gurudwara was not easy. The aura, the vibe of that place, was something I wanted to hold onto forever. It felt like a piece of Punjab had found its way to this remote corner of Ladakh, and in that moment, I was not just a traveler but a pilgrim, connected to a tradition and a faith that transcends time and space. The experience of being at Gurudwara Pathar Sahib remains etched in my heart, a memory that will stay with me always.

Khardung La Pass

Our last day’s journey took us to one of the highest motorable roads in the world, the Khardung La Pass. At an altitude of over 18,000 feet, Khardung La is more than just a mountain pass. As we moved higher, the air grew thinner, and we were treated to sights of snow-capped peaks and valleys stretching out below. The harsh cold and the thin air made us acutely aware of the challenges faced by those who traverse this pass regularly. Yet, the sense of accomplishment and the breathtaking views made every bit of the journey worth it.

Key Findings and Experiences

Our visit revealed several noteworthy findings. The use of local materials not only provides significant thermal mass but also reduces the carbon footprint. The strategic south-facing orientation of buildings optimizes solar gain, ensuring warmth during the harsh winter months. Despite challenges posed by the high altitude and cold climate, these passive solar-heated buildings efficiently maintained comfortable indoor temperatures, highlighting the effectiveness of passive solar design in extreme environments.

  • Adaptation to Climate: Local experts emphasized the integral role of passive solar design in adapting to Ladakh's extreme climate.
  • Sustainable Practices: Residents shared their experiences with sustainable living, underscoring the importance of eco-friendly construction methods.
  • Temperature Observations: Despite sub-zero temperatures outside, the interiors of these buildings remained comfortably warm, demonstrating the effectiveness of passive solar heating.
  • High Altitude Challenges: The high altitude posed risks such as altitude sickness. Acclimatization was crucial, involving gradual exposure to the altitude, staying hydrated, and avoiding strenuous activities initially.

One of the key highlights of my experience was the opportunity to visit Ladakh to carry out this field, experiencing the extreme cold climate and soothing views of the place. In conclusion, our field trip to Leh, Ladakh, provided profound insights into the effectiveness and importance of passive solar heated buildings. The knowledge gained will undoubtedly contribute to our ongoing efforts in promoting sustainable architecture. We extend our gratitude to the local experts and residents for their cooperation and to our viewers for their interest and support.

Blog by -

Yogita Pawar

Researcher

Head Quarters

G.B. Pant National Institute of Himalayan Environment